Manchu Mandarin with Mineral Stones

In 1766 the Manchu Emperor issued a series of strict dress regulations. Blue became the dynastic color, replacing the red robes of the Ming dynasty. Only the Imperial family wore yellow. Everyone else wore blue, even down to peasants in indigo-dyed cotton.

The ranks of the Mandarins, both civil and military, were proclaimed by highly sophisticated dress code from which it was forbidden to deviate. Those of the first, second and third ranks had nine four-clawed dragons embroidered on their robes. The fourth to sixth ranks had eight dragons, and the seventh to ninth, five dragons. The type of girdle clasp and the button at the apex of the hat also showed rank as follows:

First Rank: clasp, Jade set with Rubies; button, transparent Ruby. Second Rank: gold set with Rubies; opaque Coral. Third Rank: worked Gold; transparent Sapphire. Fourth Rank: worked gold with opaque Lapis Lazuli; silver. Fifth Rank: worked gold with transparent Crystal; plain silver. Sixth Rank: Mother of Pearl; opaque Jade. Seventh Rank: silver; plain gold. Eighth Rank: clear Horn; worked gold with shou characters. Ninth Rank: buffalo Horn; worked gold with two shou characters.